ISSUE 70, EXTRAORDINARY VEGETABLES, Part 4: Jewel Radish
Red Jewel Radish
Radishes must appeal to the eye as well as provide a bracing kiss of flavor. Witness the rapid popularity of the Watermelon Radish. Many of the best radishes of the past century were due to the breeding efforts of two companies: Zwaan & de Wiljes in Holland (ancestor A.R. Zwaan & Son, and to present day Vandinter Semo) and Bejo Seeds (creator of the Roxanne & Rivoli radishes) based in Oceano, California.
What makes a superlative radish differs depending on whether you are a grower or consumer. The grower seeks speed in maturation—the three week radish. The grower also wants uniformity in shape and size, disease resistance, and a smooth skin. The consumer wishes a smooth skin, rich coloration, an almost crystalize flesh, and a flavor “muy fresca y tambien caliente”. Fresh and hot. The old European practice of eating new radishes with butter was meant to temper the fire with milk fat.
Radishes grow in different shapes: icicles (the French Breakfast Radish), turnips (early Purple), subterranean columns (daikon), and balls (white, golden, and red). For the majority of people the image of radish that comes instantly to mind is red, roundish, with a mini-string at the point. Zwaan & de Wiljes Red Jewel Radish was the perfection of this commonplace image. It is red, intensely red, smooth, invitingly smooth, and round (perfectly spheroidal?). The flesh was crisp, white, and sassy tasting. There was not pith. It when from sprout to pickable in 20 days and was sufficiently cold tolerant to be planted to be the first garden crop of Spring. It was so beautiful it flew off produce stands when introduced in 1937. For its culinary, agronomic qualities and commercial potential, it was made an All American Selection.
If you’ve every encountered those modest sized round discs of radish in green salads, odds are you have tasted the Jewel Radish. Seed is available through Harris Seeds.