ISSUE 55, FRUITS & FLAVOR, Part 3: Moorpark Apricot

Moorpark Apricot

There was a time when the apricot was considered the finest, most subtle of all stone fruits. Until the 20th century it could be grown in England only by placing it against a south or east facing wall and grafting it on plum stocks. The standard of excellence in terms of taste and texture was the Moorpark Apricot, introduced by Sir William Temple (yes the fellow for whom the young Jonathan Swift was secretary) at the end of the 17th century at his estate Moorpark, Farnham, England. Legend holds that Lord Anson, the circumnavigator, secured it from a Chinese source and conveyed it to Temple. Sometimes called the peach apricot for its size and luscious texture, the Moorpark came to American in the 18th century and remained a standard orchard fruit through the 1800s. It remains widely available as an heirloom variety today. For nearly 200 years this was THE apricot in the English speaking world.

"One of the largest and finest Apricots; yellow, with a red cheek; flesh rather firm, orange, parting from the stone, sweet, juicy and rich; with a lucious flavor," the Moorpark Apricot ripened in July in the South. I. F. Mosby, Richmond Commercial Nurseries 1897, Richmond, VA.] Believed to be an English improvement of an Asian variety developed at the end of the 18th century, it was known in Britain as "Lord Dunsmore's Apricot" and the "Anson Apricot".  Its reputation was so exalted, that "one Moorpark" is worth three of any other kind of apricot; and it is esteemed by many as the richest of the stone-fruit kind" [Edinburgh Encyclopedia, 559]. The name Moorpark derives from the celebrated garden in Hertfordshire owned by Sir William Temple; many believe that he developed the variety at the end of the 17th century. It was the largest of the early apricots known to Europe.     One distinct virtue of the variety is that it is self pollinating.  Its flesh quality is such that it can be dried and maintain its integrity. 

When it was planted American orchards in the late 18th century and early 19th centuries, it was known alternatively as the Peach Apricot.  Whichever name it bore, it was prior to 1870 "decidedly the best apricot in cultivation." Pomologists insited that it "should be cultivated in preference to all others" [Flora and Pomona; or, the British Fuit and Flower Garden, London, 1829, xxiv]. Early cultivators noted a tendency of the tree, when not grafted, to grow too luxuriantly and not to bear after the burst of floresence.  To counter this, the tree was often replanted.  

This classic apricot is still available commercially through Stark Brothers Nursery in Missouri, as well as many other dealers in heirloom trees.