ISSUE 54, FATS & OILS, Part 3: Butter
Butter
Does the breed of cow producing the milk influence the flavor of butter? If we are speaking about commercial scale butter—no—because the butterfat content and casein levels are standardized in every batch being manufactured, so the diversity of milk fat production influenced by place of grazing and breed producing milk are normalized. If you are dealing with farmstead production and artisanal butter making, then there is some difference. While there is no regulation in the United States specifying the constitution of a particular kind of butter—something that does exist for cheese in some regions and countries—some small scale butter producers have taken to labeling the cow variety that produced the milk. Cowbella Unsalted Butter from New York informs customers that Jersey Cows produced the product. Yet such labelling is not a standard practice among butter producers, because many artisanal butter producers seek flavor distinction by adding another ingredient into the mix: black truffle, Tupelo honey, sorghum. The intrinsic flavor of the dairy is not quite so important when it is view as a flavor carrier.
Another point of distinction between commercial butter and craft butter is the fat content per unit sold—commercial = 80%, craft = 84-86%. This increased level has two effects: a greater sense of satiety after ingestion and a richer texture on the tongue. Given the increasing popularity of whipped butters, however, there may be a consumer downside to the higher fat content.
Among chefs the cattle breed is not so much a matter of concern as is the question whether the butter is cultured, that is whether the milk is allowed to undergo beneficial fermentation before being churned. The fermentation is controlled with the proper strain of bacteria being introduced to supply the depth of flavor and the more lavish chemistry. The flavor effects of culturing degrade with the application of heat—so using cultured butter for a melted butter sauce is something of a waste.
Amish Butter in its distinctive parchment coated long roll format has the high fat content of artisanal mutter even though some producers, such as Minerva Dairy, operate as a large batch producer. One key dimension of their processing that leads to a flavor distinct from that of the four four oz sticks you buy in the grocery is to churn at low speed. Like commercial butter, Amish butter is offer in salted and unsalted forms.
Jersey Cow
Most dairy farms build herds for milk production and quantity is the prime desideratum, so the Holstein is preferred. The Brown Swiss has milk with a high protein to fat ratio, making it stand out for cheese production. The Jersey has very high butterfat content, making it the American choice for butter and ice cream. The Guernsey has a particularly rich milk in terms of carotene and other beneficial chemicals. The choice for whole milk healthy diets.
If you fear fat, you shouldn’t be reading this!