ISSUE 22, PICKLES, Part 6: Chow-Chow
Chow-Chow
“Every southern cook has her own chow-chow recipe, potato salad recipe, and pretends to have her own deviled eggs recipe.”
There are certain condiments found on southern tables: artichoke relish, pear relish, piccalilli—but they all stand a distant second to Chow-Chow. This sweet-sour melange of vegetables is consumed with rice, with field peas, with corn bread, with grits, with pork chops, with fried fish. Some will even put a spoonful on collard greens to give them zest.
I can understand why everyone has a unique Chow Chow recipe: from the time of its adoption from South Asia in the 18th century, there has always been a latitude of ingredients, a variety of spices, and different intensities of sweet and sour. Yes all Chow Chow formulae have mustard, vinegar, sugar, spice, and vegetables in them, but the question of which vegetables, which spices, and how much mustard, sugar, and vinegar are all open. For this reason historical southern cookbooks have an astonishing range of recipes, and single cookbooks often offer multiple versions.
My mother’s canning efforts were restricted to three things—sour cherries, dilly beans, and Chow Chow. Only Chow Chow made the kitchen smell like an exotic place. Each generation has introduced a new emphasis into Chow Chow. We are now in the turmeric age. The late 19th century was the age of cinnamon. The antebellum period was the age of ginger. My mother, whose cooking was definitely post-WW2, was all about celery seed.
The vegetable emphasis changes as well: older Chows tended to be cabbage heavy, now green tomatoes and peppers are prominent. Cauliflower had its devotees.
One of my students, Amanda Barfield, searched through old (pre 1920) southern cookbooks collecting Chow Chow recipes. Here are a transcript of her findings. Thank you, Amanda.
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Old Virginia Chow Chow (Mrs. Elliott’s Housewife 1870)
Three pecks of ripe tomatoes, three of green, five large heads of cabbages, one dozen green peppers, same of ripe, half a pound of celery; chop very fine, cover it with salt, and let it stand twenty-four hours. Then drain the brine off thoroughly; cover it with vinegar and three pounds of sugar. Scald it over an hour in a porcelain kettle, take it off, and add one cup of scraped horse-radish, one of mustard seed, ounce of cloves, two ounces of spice, same of ginger, and one of ground mustard. Tie it up close, and let it stand a month before using it.Mrs. Sarah A. Elliott, Mrs. Elliott’s housewife Containing Practical Receipts In Cookery, (New York: Hurd and Houghton 1870) p. 217.
Chow-Chow Pickle (The Queen Of The Kitchen 1874)
806. Cut up 1 peck of white cabbage; sprinkle it with salt, over night, in layers; put a pressure upon it. Next morning, cut 10 large white onions, and sprinkle with salt; drain the cabbage, and lay it on a cloth while you prepare the vinegar. Take I pound of sugar, 1 pound of mustard seed, 2 ounces of pulverized cinnamon, 2 ounces of turmeric, 2 ounces of -white mustard seed, 2 ounces of celery seed, and 1 pint of grated horseradish. Put it all into the vinegar, and let it come to a boil; then put in the cabbage and onions; let it boil for 10 minutes. Add 1 tea-cup of oil, if it is liked. Miss Tyson (the Queen Of The Kitchen A Collection O “Old Maryland” Family Receipts For Cooking. ( Philadelphia: TB Peterson & Brothers ,1874)p.339.
Chow-Chow (Housekeeping In Old Virginia 1879)
The recipe is for one gallon pickle; for more, the quantities must be increased, of course. The ingredients consist of: 1/4 peck green tomatoes. 1 large head of cabbage. 6 large onions. 1 dozen cucumbers. 1/2 pint grated horseradish. 1/2 pound white mustard-seed. 1/2 ounce celery-seed. A few small onions. 1/4 teacup ground pepper. Turmeric, ground cinnamon. A little brown sugar. Cut the cabbage, onions and cucumbers into small pieces, and pack them down in salt one night; then put in vinegar, poured over hot. Do this three mornings. The third morning, mix one box ground mustard with one-quarter pint salad oil. To be mixed in while warm.--Mrs. 0. B. Marion Cabell Tyree Housekeeping In Old Virginia (Louisville: JohnP. Morton and Company, 1879), p,285.
Chow-Chow Pickle (Housekeeping In Old Virginia 1879)
1/2 peck green tomatoes, 2 large cabbages. 15 onions, 25 cucumbers. 1 plate horseradish. 1/2 pound mustard-seed. 1 ounce celery-seed. 2 ounces ground pepper. 2 ounces turmeric. 1/2 ounce cinnamon. Cut the onions, tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage in small pieces; pack them down overnight in salt, lightly; in the morning pour off the brine, and put them to soak in weak vinegar two days; drain again, and mix the spices. Boil half a gallon vinegar and three pounds sugar, and pour over them hot. Mix two boxes ground seed.--Mrs. R. A. Marion Cabell Tyree Housekeeping In Old Virginia (Louisville: JohnP. Morton and Company, 1879), p,283.
Chow-Chow (Housekeeping In Old Virginia 1879)
1/2 peck onions. 1/2 peck green tomatoes. 5 dozen cucumbers Slice all very fine, and put in a few whole cucumbers, one pint small red and green peppers; sprinkle one pint salt over them, and let them stand all night; then add: 1 ounce mace. 1 ounce white mustard-seed. 1 ounce celery-seed. 1 ounce turmeric. 1 ounce whole cloves. 3 tablespoonfuls ground mustard. 2 pounds brown sugar. 1 stalk horseradish, grated fine. Cover all with one gallon and one pint of strong vinegar, and boil thirty minutes.--Miss E. T. . Marion Cabell Tyree Housekeeping In Old Virginia (Louisville: John P. Morton and Company, 1879), p,283.
Chow-Chow Pickle (Housekeeping In Old Virginia 1879)
1 gallon chopped cabbage. 4 onions. 2 pounds brown sugar. 2 pints strong vinegar. 2 tablespoonfuls black pepper. 2 tablespoonfuls of allspice. 2 tablespoonfuls of celery-seed. 1/2 pint mustard-seed. 1 tablespoonful ground mustard. The cabbage and onions must stand in strong salt and water two hours, then place in a brass kettle, with the vinegar and spices, and sugar; boil until syrup is formed. Excellent.--Mrs. J. H. F. Marion Cabell Tyree Housekeeping In Old Virginia (Louisville: John P. Morton and Company, 1879), p,284
Chow Chow (50 Years In A Maryland Kitchen 1881)
A half peck of onions. A half peck of green tomatoes. Five dozen cucumbers. Slice the large ones and put the small ones in whole. Four large peppers sliced. One pint of small red and green peppers. Sprinkle one pint of salt over them, and let them drain all night. In the morning drain off every drop of the salt or juice. Then add one ounce each of white mustard seed; white pepper; celery seed; turmeric and mace; half an ounce of cloves; three table-spoonfuls of made mustard; two pounds of brown sugar; and one piece of horse-radish grated fine. Cover all with strong vinegar, and let it boil well for half an hour. This quantity will take about one gallon of vinegar, but this depends upon the size of the fruit. In adding the spices, put a layer of the pickle into your pot whilst hot, and a layer of the spices, all having been well mixed together. The mustard and turmeric dissolved in half a cup of water each, and stir into the pickle when it is put on to boil. Some persons only put in half the quantity of peppers, as the above quantity makes it very hot. Mrs. B. C. Howard, 50 Years In A Maryland Kitchen 4th edition (Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott & Co., 1881), p. 287.
Chow Chow (Housekeeping In the Blue Grass 1881)
One large head of cabbage, two dozen cucumbers, one dozen green peppers, one gallon green tomatoes, one half dozen onions ; chop the onions and pour hot water over them, letting them stand ten minutes ; chop the other ingredients fine and sprinkle salt over them, adding the onions. Let them stand all night, and put them to drain two hours; then pour on weakened cold vinegar; let stand twenty-four hours; pour off that vinegar, and to every gallon of the mixture add one half pound sugar; put good vinegar on; season with mace and cloves; mustard and turmeric to color; put the vinegar on the fire; let come to a boil and pour over it.—Mrs. D. M. Dodge. The Ladies of the Presbyterian Church, Paris, KY. Housekeeping In The Blue Grass A New And Practical Cookbook, (Cincinnati: Robert Clarke & Co., 1881), p.33.
Chow Chow (Housekeeping In the Blue Grass 1881)
One half gallon of cucumbers or tomatoes ; sprinkle with salt and let stand six hours. Then prepare half a gallon of cabbage in the same way; press the water out; cut one dozen onions fine; pour boiling water over them and let stand a while ; then drain and mix all together; add half a dozen green peppers cut fine, a cup of ground mustard, two cups of white mustard seed, three table-spoonfuls turmeric, three of celery seed, one of mace, one of red pepper, one of ground cinnamon ; mix all these well together; boil vinegar enough to cover ; put one pound of sugar in the vinegar, or as much as you choose. Pour it boiling over the pickle.—Mrs. Wornall. The Ladies of the Presbyterian Church, Paris, KY. Housekeeping In The Blue Grass A New And Practical Cookbook, (Cincinnati: Robert Clarke & Co., 1881), p.34.
Chow-Chow Pickle (La Cusine Creole (1885)
Take a quarter of a peck each, of green tomatoes, pickling-beans, and white onions (scald the onions separately), add one dozen cucumbers, green peppers, and a head of cabbage chopped. Season with ground mustard, celery seed, and salt to taste. Pour over these the best cider vinegar to cover them, and let all boil two hours, and while hot add two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil and the same of white sugar. Bottle and seal up carefully in wide-mouthed glass jars. Chow-Chow Pickle, La Cusine Creole A Collection Of Culinary Recipes From Leading Chefs And Noted Creole Housewives, Who Have Made New Orleans Famous For Its Cuisine. Second Edition (New Orleans: FF Hansell & Bro., Ltd., 1885), p. 113.
Chow Chow No. 1 (Very like what is imported) (Virginia Cookery Book 1885)
In making this admired pickle, so justly regarded as a delicacy, the rarer and more tender the vegetable the nearer it comes to the proper standard of excellence. Wide-mouthed glass jars should be provided for the putting away of chow-chow. The following recipe is for filling four quart-bottles : Take two large perfect heads of cauliflower, and divide them up into small but shapely pieces, so as to leave a little of the blossom unbroken on each one ; one quart of cucumbers, by no means over two inches in length, one dozen small green-pepper pods, and one quart of cloves, of garlic, or tiny onion-bulbs peeled; half a pint of nasturtiums are nice, but may or may not be included. Let the vegetables stay twenty-four hours in brine ; the garlic or onions to be scalded and left to soak in a vessel by themselves ; next morning mix all together, and let them drain two hours through a colander; taste, and if too salt pour a bath of hot water through them while still in the colander ; next put the vegetables in a preserving-kettle over the fire, sprinkling through them two ounces of turmeric, adding two table-spoonfuls of Cayenne pepper and a quarter of a pound of English mustard mixed smooth, with a tea cupf ul of water that has been boiled but become lukewarm ; pour on enough of the best cider vinegar to cover well, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, watching and stirring from time to time. Imported chow-chow has no sugar; but to please American taste the house - keeper may add to suit the requisition of her own family. In deference to the great diversity of tastes, we give two other approved recipes for the same. Mary Stuart Smith, Virginia Cookery Book ( New York: Harper & Brothers, Franklin Square, 1885), p. 261.
Chow-Chow, No. 2 (Virginia Cookery Book 1885)
Half a peck of onions, half a peck of green tomatoes, three dozen large cucumbers, four large green pepper-pods, one pint of small red and green peppers. Sprinkle one pint of salt upon them, and let them drain all night; then add one ounce of mace, one ounce of white pepper, one ounce of white mustard-seed, one ounce of turmeric, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of celery - seed, three table-spoonfuls of made mustard, two pounds of brown sugar. The cucumbers are not peeled, but sliced an inch thick. The onions and peppers are also sliced. Cover all with vinegar, and boil half an hour. Mary Stuart Smith, Virginia Cookery Book ( New York: Harper & Brothers, Franklin Square, 1885), p. 262.
Chow-Chow, No. 3 (Virginia Cookery Book 1885)
One large head of bleached cabbage, two dozen cucumbers (medium size), one dozen green peppers, one gallon green tomatoes, half a dozen onions (silver - skinned). Chop the onions, and pour hot water over them, letting them stand ten minutes; chop the ingredients fine, and sprinkle salt over them, adding the onions. Let them stand all night, and then drain two hours in the morning ; pour weakened vinegar over them, and let them stand twenty-four hours; pour off that vinegar, and to every gallon of the mixture put one pound and a half of sugar ; put two table-spoonfuls of turmeric in a Swiss muslin bag and drop it into the pot for coloring matter. For seasoning put one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of mace, two ounces of white mustard - seed, and one nutmeg to each gallon of vegetables. Two quarts of vinegar for the same quantity of pickling matter. Mary Stuart Smith, Virginia Cookery Book ( New York: Harper & Brothers, Franklin Square, 1885), p. 263.
Chow Chow (Mrs. Carlisle’s Kentucky Cookbook 1893)
ONE-HALF gallon of cucumbers; when peeled and cut sprinkle well with salt; let them stand six hours; squeeze them as dry as you can, then scald them in vinegar and water, leaving in until cold. Prepare half a gallon of cabbage in the same way; cut up one dozen onions and pour over them boiling water and vinegar; when cold press dry, add horse-radish grated, a little garlic, one teacupful of mustard and two of white mustard seed, three tablespoonfuls of turmeric, one of mace, one of cinnamon, three of celery seed, one of cayenne pepper, two of olive oil; mix all well in a pan. Boil a little allspice and cloves in the vinegar with one pound of brown sugar to each gallon; pour boiling hot over the pickles, covering them well with it. Mrs. John G. Carlisle, Mrs. Walter Q. Gresham, Mrs. General Crook, Mrs. W.A. Dudley, and others, Mrs. John G. Carlisle’s Kentucky Cookbook Containing Original Recipes Never Before Published (Chicago:F Tennyson Neely, Publisher, 1893), p.181.
Leesburg Chow Chow (Instructions in Cooking 1895)
4 pounds brown sugar, 1/2 cup cinnamon, 2 small boxes of mustard, 1/2 pint olive oil, 2 large heads of cabbage, 15 large onions, 1 pint grated horseradish, 25 cucumbers, ½ pound white mustard seed, 1 ounce celery seed, 2 pint small onions, ½ cup ground pepper, ½ cup turmeric. To Make: Cut the tomatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, and large onions in small pieces, and pack them in salt. Let them stand for one night; drain and put them in vinegar and water to soak for a day; drain again, and mix in the spices; boil the vinegar, and pour over hot; boil the same vinegar for three successive mornings, and pour over hot. The third morning stir into the vinegar the mustard, olive oil, and brown sugar. Put into jars; cover closely, and keep in a dry, cool place. Mrs. John W. Cringan, Instruction in Cooking with Selected Receipts (Richmond: J. L. Printing Co. 1895), p.312.