ISSUE 86, LOST FRUITS WORTH FINDING, Part 3: 8 Vanished Peaches
Alexander Peach, USDA Pomological Watercolor Collection
Vanished Peaches
Certain of a greatest historical varieties of peaches have vanished from the pomological collections of the world and from the variety lists of commercial nurseries. Perhaps they still survive on the landscape somewhere—in the backlots of old farmsteads, in widow orchards, in the collector groves that were once common in the South. While many old varieties have passed into disuse and into memory, often their obsolescence was warranted. Vulnerabilities to disease, to pests, to inherent genetic weaknesses have made them too troublesome to tend. Other old varieties were created because they ripened very early or late in the season—in May {The Sneed Peach] or in late October [Albright’s Late]—not because they tasted rich, juicy, melting, and sweet. Yet there were a dozen or so peach varieties, once immensely popular in the United States, and particularly the South, that have passed on despite their being superlative in taste, in texture, and in ease of cultivation.
Below I have listed the most important of these varieties in the hopes that someone might recognize one of them from an old tree in the neighborhood. If you suspect that one of these in your vicinity, please photograph the tree, the fruit, and send a jpg to me. We will do our best to insure that the genetic legacy of these fruits does not go to waste.
If you want to grow a rare heirloom variety, famous for flavor, I recommend the white Carman Peach.
But if you are one who treks the old rural landscapes of the East and South, here are some targets:
Alexander Peach:
An English version of this peach—Peregrine—USDA PI 673492—is conserved in the USDA germ plasm collection, but the true Alexander is no long in any collection. A medium to large sized semi-cling peach with white flesh tinged with green, a fresh vinous flavor and luscious juiciness, the Alexander Peach became popular in the 1870s throughout the South. Because it ripened early—about June 1—it became a standard market variety from Florida to Kentucky, from Delaware to Texas; the Amsden Peach was another market name. The trees were known for being prolific. As the USDA watercolor below indicates, the fruit was richly red in rind.
Deborah Passmore, “Amelia Peach,” USDA Pomological Watercolor
Amelia Peach
First bred in Orangeburg, South Carolina, in the 1840s, this large oblong Peach had a pale yellow skin extensively marbled with crimson. It was white fleshed and possessed a rich, forward flavor. Despite its tenderness and liability to bruise during transportation, that melting floral flavor kept it a popular yard peach well into the twentieth century. It ripened in the last weeks of July. It was standard nursery stock from Florida to Delaware for over 80 years. Possibly Extinct—not retained in USDA collection.
Deborah Passmore, “Early Rivers Peach,” USDA Pomological Watercolor
Early Rivers
Introduced from England in the mid-19th century, the Early Rivers followed the Alexander in the cycle of quality market peaches, arriving at ripeness around June 15. The fruit were impressively large, straw-colored with touches of green and one pink cheek. Its flavor was unique—subacid, “racy,” and fresh; the flesh dissolved in one’s mouth. It was a freestone, when perfectly ripe; but as with other early peaches there was a tendency to consume them too soon, in which case they behaved like a semi-cling. Possibly Extinct—not retained in USDA Collection.
“Lady Ingold Peach,” USDA Pomological Watercolor
Lady Ingold
A very large red cheeked, yellow fleshed Peach bred by Alfred Ingold of Greensboro, North Carolina, the Lady Ingold vied with the Crawford Early Peach as the best fruit at the beginning of the season. Ripening a few days earlier that the Crawford, this freestone peach proved versatile—as good for drying and canning as for fresh produce. It was said to be “juicy, rich, of high flavor”—qualities rare in early season yellow peaches. Season June 20-30. Possibly extinct—not in the USDA germ plasm collection.
Amanda Newton, “Oldmixon Cling Peach,” USDA Pomological Watercolor
Oldmixon Cling
One of the oldest of American peaches--Possibly extinct—has not come down to us, though its freestone seedling offspring, the Oldmixon Free has. A large oblong red skinned peach, its white flesh is streaked with red at the core and was deemed candy sweet at the beginning of the 19th century. Other varieties would surpass it in sugariness ln the 19th century. It ripened at the end of July. Not in the USDA germ plasm collection.
Amanda Newton, “Smock Peach,” USDA Pomological Watercolor
Smock
Named after an orchardist from Middletown, New Jersey, this large yellow fleshed peach won followers throughout the South in the middle of the 19th century because it ripened late in the season—at the end of September or beginning of October, and did not taste dull as did most late season peaches. It was moderately juicy. The fruit had an oval shape, with narrow sides, and an orange skin with a red sunside cheek. Possibly extinct—not in the USDA germ plasm collection.
“Stump the World,” USDA Pomological Watercolor
Stump the World
A behemoth of a Peach with a ten inch circumference, the Stump the World had the shape of a flattened ball, sometimes with an indentation at the apex. Its skinn was ivory yellow, spattered with red grading to an intense red cheek. Ripening in the first week in August, it was sumptuously flavored. A freestone, the flesh was white, juicy, and sugary. In the 20th century the name was frequently contracted to “Stump.” Possibly extinct—not in the USDA germ plasm collection.
Wonderful
Blessed with a name that encouraged positive response, the Wonderful peach was very big, very firm, very yellow, and very easily processed peach. A freestone, it became a freezer peach, used in ice cream. Ripening at the end of August, it was a prime last season shipping peach during its heyday from 1890 to 1910. Its red skin usually boasted a pronounced crease. Possibly extinct—not in the USDA germ plasm collection.